(A monthly column that invites you to drink and discuss wine with Eric Asimov)
wrote two articles about Verdicchio in July 2020.
“Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest native white grape variety,” Ian D’Agata wrote in his authoritative book “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.” “That statement may come as a surprise to those who have only tried neutral or watery verdicchio wines, at times even bottled in improbable amphora-shaped bottles.”
The quality of Italian white wines in general has shot upward in the last 20 years, and that includes verdicchio. You can still find a fair number of the bad old wines around, but the good ones can be a revelation.
In the two articles E. Asimov shows a good appreciation for Bisci wines:
“Citrus, herbs, almonds, seashells and stones, along with the richer roundness of the Bisci,
made for the most satisfying combination, for me at least. “
Verdicchio di Matelica, to Discover or Revisit
By Eric Asimov
July 2, 2020
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/02/dining/drinks/wine-school-assignment-verdicchio-di-matelica.html
What Is a Great Wine? Verdicchio di Matelica Has Some Ideas
By Eric Asimov
July 30, 2020
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/30/dining/drinks/wine-school-verdicchio-di-matelica.html